WHERE ARE ALL THE FEMALE MICHELIN STAR CHEFS?

Who Michelin should have on their radar

Ruth Hansom of Hansom, Yorkshire

Are we going back in history? 

(and for once I am not wringing my hands about the Potus) 

It is nearly International Women’s Day, which has been around for over a hundred years, as have many of the issues still impacting women’s advancement.

The cringeworthy film about female chefs by French filmmaker Verane Frediani seemed to be a sop for Gwendal Poullenec banal utterance about hoping to see more female chefs in Michelin in the future. There was only one new Michelin star for a female chef, Emily Roux of Caractère, great news, though, seriously, a long time coming.

I updated my Telegraph Travel feature of last year on the Michelin clusters beyond London this week, which I very much enjoyed doing, https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/food-and-wine-holidays/every-michelin-starred-restaurant-britain-uk-foodie-weekend/

Yet, I was shocked that there wasn’t a single Michelin recognised woman among the clusters. Scrolling through new openings coming up on Hot Dinner was sadly the same.  What a shame neither The Midland Grand nor The Capital appointed a female head chef

Might the presence of Grace Dent on MasterChef and Lorna McNee of Cail Bruich as the new addition to Great British Menu’s judging panel be good high profile advocacy?  

The brilliant Elena Arzak of San Sebastian’s Arzak will be a judge at The Roux Scholarship awards which have long failed to attract many female contestants. From frequentish visits to her restaurant, I know that she has already employed many female chefs and more mature women too.

It does make me wonder how many female Michelin inspectors there are covering the UK ? 

Perhaps Michelin need to look with their eyes wide open?  

I could certainly help by nominating some female chefs for them to visit as I am outlining below.  

LONDON

In London, there’s Nokx Majozi, senior pie maker extraordinaire with a worldwide reputation at international food festivals, as well as a hugely popular presence at The Pie Room at Holborn Dining Room. Is Nokx exec chef too as her predecessor and mentor Calum Franklin was?

 

Adriana Cavita’s authentic and forward looking Mexican food at Cavita. Adriana has previously worked at two major Michelin restaurants Pujol and El Bulli and should surely be one Michelin should be watching?

Guirong Wei who has done more than any other chef to introduce the capital to the cuisine of China’s North-West Shaanxi province especially her memorably delicious Xiang Xiang thick noodles. First at Xi’an Impression in Highbury, which she co-owns, then at her first solo restaurant Master Wei in Bloomsbury, and now in Hammersmith and in Tower Hill too, her most ambitious project to date.  Incredible to think Guirong came to London knowing no English and knowing nobody.

Nikita Pathakji  Princess of Shoreditch, who became the first female chef in a decade to win BBC Masterchef: The Professionals .  Nikita who has worked at Michelin restaurants including Claude Bosi’s Bibendum and Kitchen W8 and combines classical techniques with global flavours in truly delicious, original dishes.

Should Amber Francis, most recently at Maene where her highly seasonal and produce led food has been widely praised, return from working in a school to the world of restaurants., surely Michelin will be looking her way Amber was Young Chef of the Year at the British Restaurant Awards and has appeared on Great British Menu this year.  Previously, she has worked in amazing formative kitchens including The Ritz, The Hand & Flowers, Le Manoir, Chez Bruce and briefly at The French Laundry and Benu in New Yearand is surely one of Britain’s most talented rising stars.  

Abby Lee, chef & owner of Mambow, reconnected with her roots particularly Nyonya cuisine from the Peranakans, the descendants of early Chinese migrants, and serves superb dishes such as pork and prawn lor bak, cuttlefish kerabu and stone bass with a tamarind-based perut ikan inspired curry sauce 

Anna Søgaas, Jomfru, a Nordic, seafood-led residency at Dina Wines in Stratford with the sort of Scandinavian food she grew up with that is barely represented in London, and Michelin is so fond of.

Ravinder Bhogal of Jikoni who serves eclectic delicate food from South Asia and the Far East with influences of East Africa, the Middle East and a strong emphasis on herbs and spices and vegan dishes and exquisite presentation.

Sarit Parker, surely one of the loveliest, warmest women in food whose dishes at Honey & Co and Honey & Smoth created with her life and work partner are always irresistible. 

Selim Kiazim, formerly of Oklava, draws on her Turkish Cypriot knowledge and curiosity about regional Turkish food to produce vibrant modern menus with superb breads at her new opening Leydi.

Erin Jackson Yates, Bar Valette, a new opening taking its cues from coastal France and Spain sounds good to me especially as it is led by a Clove Club alumni and serves devilled crab tartlets (surely inspired by Ganbara tapas bar in San Sebastian?) grouse sausage rolls and the iconic buttermilk fried chicken in pine.

UK-WIDE

Ruth Hansom, Hansoms, Bedales, Yorkshire was the youngest ever female winner of Young National Chef of the Year and she reached the final of Great British Menu.  Ruth actually loves the challenge of competing.  Her new restaurant is in partnership with her husband Mark Hansom-Rigby and is an intimate, 16 seater serving luxurious contemporary seasonal food.

Elly Wentworth who is mentioned in Michelin, but really needs a star for stepping into enormous steps at The Angel, Dartmouth for her intricate and beautiful seasonal food drawing on her classical training.

Roberta Hall-McCarron is one of those chefs whom I always think surely already has a Michelin award, and definitely deserves the recognition.  Her Little Chartroom in Edinburgh’s Leith district has only 14 seats and 3 at bar.  Now, with her new place Ardfern surely she will receive the accolades her exceptional and assured cooking merits.

Rosie Maguire, Upper Ground , Manchester who is known as ‘Queen of the Grill’ so why, when many male chefs who rock their grill are recognised, has Rosie not been yet?

Ayesha Kalaji, chef-owner of Queen of Cups who has worked her way through The Palomar, Bubala and The Good Egg, as well as appearing on MasterChef: The Professionals.  Her far from classic Jordanian heritage meets Middle Eastern food already has a Bib Gourmand, but perhaps there could be more? Ayesha has a pop-up at London’s InterContinental throughout Ramadan. 

Alice Power, head chef of The Black Swan, Olstead, North Yorkshire, a Leiths graduate, who worked at Carousel before joining The Tommy Banks Group.