#WHY WOMEN IN HOSPITALITY ARE FLIPPING DETERMINED TO BRING ABOUT CHANGE
INTERNATIONAL WOMEN's DAY MEETS PANCAKE FINESSE
A truly positive update to my call out to Michelin to look at the female chefs I identified in my last substack asMichelin star and Bib Gourmand deserving as the Michelin powers that be presently whimper there are not enough female chefs out there, rubbish. International Director Gwendal Poullennec says “where are all the women?’ I say they are not looking carefully enough.
Poullennec claimed in France last year: ‘Too few women are leading kitchens, (actually far more than you see, my italics) despite the fact that more and more of them are working in kitchens. It’s a reality we deplore. I know many chefs have come up with strong initiatives to promote talented young women. (Have they? my italics) I hope that one day they’ll open their own restaurants.’
My chosen poster girl for my rant was Ruth Hansom whose career I have followed closely in London since she started out at The Ritz. This week, Giles Coren gave her Yorkshire restaurant Hansom, one of his most glowing, from the heart reviews ever. ‘She is incredible and can do anything she wants. The savoury bread and butter pudding was gorgeous, sensual, full of love and truth. It’s nine out of ten across the board.”
Uncannily, though unsurprisingly, my call out coincided with a forthright open letter from 70 leading female chefs, rallied by Sally Abé of the superb The Pem in St James’s, Dara Klein of Tiella London and Poppy O’Toole, a former Michelin trained restaurant chef, now a phenomenally successful food writer and Queen of potato recipes calling out and condemning the pervasive bullying, sexual abuse and culture of fear and sexism in both British restaurant kitchens and front-of-house as well as among ‘celebrity chefs’. This perpetuates many women choosing not to stay in restaurant kitchens and going off to do their own thing, rather as Hansom has done. She presently runs her kitchen single-handedly with just a kitchen porter on Saturdays and two front of house plus her devoted husband offering a complimentary taxi service for diners.
The feisty letter which has resonated with many many more women in hospitality (300 plus signatures now) feels like something of a #Metoo moment for female chefs. It was released in Jo Taylor’s excellent article in the Telegraph. To quote from the letter: ‘We are collectively demanding to be heard and for more individuals in our industry, or in general, to become role models instead of remaining silent and pretending these issues don’t exist.’ From inappropriate comments and behaviours to unequal opportunities for advancement, these experiences hinger not only individual careers, but the growth and innovation of our industry as a whole.’
They are rightly calling for a more inclusive, equitable and positive work environment in the restaurant industry.
To give further context, the letter was triggered by a most unfortunate article that portrayed chef Jason Atherton as saying there was no longer sexism in the kitchen and the article misleadingly referred to articles Poppy O’Toole, had actually written several years ago. Atherton later responded saying he was misrepresented, and he meant he hadn’t experienced this sexism personally, and would never condone it. Of course not, he is male and the big boss of a multi-site international restaurant empire. Note Jason, the fact that you have two daughters and live in a female household is irrelevant. It is diminishing the lived experience and the abuse and undermining many many women have been exposed to.
This is a line that a certain former food writer used disparagingly and ineffectively on me when trying to put me down repeatedly.
And how has Michelin responded? Myopically. At the French Michelin awards 2024 (new stars will be announced next month, March), they announced the new stars in France with another anodyne film about female chefs, yet women were still notably absent from the list which can make or break restaurants. Only one woman was awarded on her own Eugénie Béziat, head chef at the Ritz Paris’ flagship restaurant, L’Espadon, not exactly a big surprise that the guide would look there. Most were awarded as duos with co-male chefs, with the thrilling exception of a rare duo of female chefs – Manon Fleury and Laurène Barjhoux – who, together earned a star for their restaurant Datil in Paris, which I am now longing to visit.
As Gizzi Erskine has written this weekend in the i paper ‘Kitchens will only ever be equal when more women are in senior roles and opened up to the possibility of Michelin stars.’
It annoys the hell out of me that I am usually only asked to write about female chefs around International Women’s Day, and do my best to ensure that they are, at the very least, equally given space in my features all year. Erskine admits that she has had problems with people taking her seriously as a restauranteur but it is in the media that I have experienced most sexism. ‘I’ve always struggled with questions about me being a female chef. Sure – I am one, and I’m incredibly proud of the fact, but when your whole career gets diminished to that, it gets annoying pretty quickly. I was constantly asked about whether I was married and had children, and compared to Nigella who I adore, but who has a completely different career to mine.’
For those of us able to attend an International Women’s Day event, (the first IWD was way back in 1911 and was centred around women’s rights to work, vote and hold public office). The theme this year is #AccelerateAction about celebrating women’s achievements, fighting for an inclusive world and striving for gender equality. These events stand out:
TWO EVENTS BY WOMEN IN THE FOOD INDUSTRY’s MEX IBRAHIM
Celebrating Women in the Food Industry - 3 IWD 2025 Panels at Mercato Metropolitan, Mayfair - 9.30am-6pm Monday 3 March
The panels cover the challenges of book publishing (with prolific authors, publishers and a literary agent), to women using food to improve our world, through to what it takes to create a successful food brand. Each panel is two hours giving deep dive into the issues which should accelerate action.
Monday, 3rd March 2025. https://womeninthefoodindustry.com/events/celebrating-women-in-the-food-industry-iwd2025-panels-mercato-mayfair/
Lower Ground Floor, Mercato MayfairSt Mark's Church North Audley Street London W1K 6ZA
Strong in Sustainability & Standing Up IWD Panels 3pm - 6pm Tuesday 4 March
Two inspiring panel events. Discover how three women, who now work in the food industry, have experienced the challenges of working in predominantly male environments. How did they make themselves heard & stand up for their views? Plus three experts in sustainability who are showing how the future of our food systems depends on a diverse & empathetic workplaces and leadership.
Halifax HQ First Floor118-132 New Oxford Street, London, WC1A 1HL
https://womeninthefoodindustry.com/events/
Les Dames D’Escoffier London presents: Leading the Charge: Top Chefs Shaping the Future of Women in the Kitchen: Curated by Chef Sally Abé in partnership with Open Table Tuesday 4th March 2025, 6 – 9pm
Les Dames d’Escoffier London, the philanthropic organisation of women leaders in food, drink, and hospitality, has a stellar line-up of female hospitality powerhouses for a panel event celebrating IWD, curated by trailblazing chef and author, Sally Abé.
A passionate advocate for women in hospitality and celebrated for her sell-out International Women’s Day events, Sally Abé is one of London’s leading chefs, recognised for her work at The Pem and The Harwood Arms, alongside her dedication to equality in the industry.
Expect an evening of impassioned conversation, exploring topics such as the persistent barriers for women in the industry, why the conversation remains more relevant than ever, the path to meaningful change, shifts in the media landscape, and the panellists’ personal journeys. The session will conclude with an audience Q&A and networking. Taking place on 4th March at 58 329 Acton Mews, London E8 4EF
ON THE PANEL
Sabrina Gidda – Chef, Author, Consultant
A self-taught chef and author of Modern South Asian Kitchen, known for her work with top restaurants and brands, and a former Great British Menu contestant.
Michelle Trusselle - Chef, Consultant & Head of Culinary Aramark UK & Global Offshore
Michelin-trained chef and MasterChef: The Professionals alumna, blending classical techniques with Caribbean flavours, now Head of Culinary at Aramark UK & Global Offshore.
April Lily Partridge – Chef & Roux Scholar
Roux Scholar 2023 and award-winning chef, formerly at The Ledbury, now Development Chef at Opus Provisions, championing British produce.
The panel will be moderated by renowned food journalist and BBC Radio 4’s The Food Programme presenter, Sheila Dillon, whose work has shaped key conversations in food and farming.
Doors will open at 6.00pm, with the panel discussion taking place 7.00 – 8.00pm, the evening concluding at 9.00pm.
Tickets are priced at £20 per person, including a seat at the panel, a 58 and CO gin and tonic, and a Nespresso martini.
All funds raised from the event will support LDE London’s mission to empower women in hospitality, providing peer-to-peer support and sponsorship opportunities for women entering the industry.
https://www.opentable.co.uk/r/sally-abes-international-womens-day-london
The latest instalment in the JKS Presents series, The Women Who Make Us, takes place at the Barbican on Monday 10 Mar 14:30 - 17:30 to mark IWD. Panel topics will include Gen Z, raising the bar for South Asian women in hospitality and the future of hospitality. Proceeds to Smart Works.
Get ahead with Shrove Tuesday, aka Pancake Day which somehow always seems suddenly imminent. Having a proper dedicated crepe pan is a revelation which I only realised when I came to write my ‘Flipping Good: Pancake Around the World ‘ a truly global curated encyclopedia of pancakes from Irish boxty and Ashkenazi potato latkes to Sri Lankan hopper and Vietnamese banh xeo. Plus dessert pancakes from Danish Aebleskiver and Tuscan necci to Hungarian palatschinken and Arabic atayef filled with clotted cream and pistachio and Thai pang jee, coconut and banana pancakesA normal frying pan doesn’t really work as the steam generated by higher sides means less browning and less space for the batter to spread out. The larger surface area and shorter sides of a crêpe pan are ideal.
Pancakes should be cooked at a constant, moderate temperature, cast iron is best of all though they do require prior seasoning, or if you really plan on making a lot of pancakes a copper pan and I so wish I had invested in one whilst recipe tasting.
Realistically mid range in price, the good-looking French made De Buyer Mineral B Carbon Steel Crêpe Pan seems an appealingly good compromise. It retains high levels of heat, making it ideal for gaining perfectly crisp edges on any kind of pancake. It is impressively heavy duty despite its relatively thin base and has a long curved handle that stays pretty cool as the pan heats. Pre-seasoning is essential to build up its patina (the surface will change from grey to black) though such procedures are surely a positive rite of passage for a true foodie. The crepe pan can be used on induction and agas too. They cost from £36.00 at Borough Kitchen. (Beautiful stores in Borough Market, Chiswick, Hampstead and Islington.)
https://tinyurl.com/4svzy466 for details